Despite the Storm, Nothing But Beauty (Winter) :|: Iceland

[Seljalandsfoss on a Winter's Night, Jason Watanabe]

Despite the Storm, Nothing But Beauty (Winter) :|: Iceland

Travel Tips to Iceland on WoW + Airport Transport 

I knew that Iceland would be such a beautiful place, I just never realized how breathtaking it could be, even though I experienced it through a storm. While it was warmer than normal while I was there (5-6C), the weather still was an issue through the trip, with the rain and winds that reached up to 40-50mph. The conditions made me thankful that I didn't decide to drive myself, as I signed up for tours throughout the trip, however, if you're comfortable driving in windy and icy conditions and also am fine dealing with one-way bridges and roundabouts, then you should be fine, just make sure to fill up gas at every opportunity if you're heading across the island, as you could go long stretches without seeing a gas station. As beautiful as this place is, it also is a very expensive place, as I spent a lot of money on food and gifts, so much in these small towns, that the airport almost seemed like a deal. 

Iceland is a waterfall paradise which has a lot to do with the glaciers that cover just over 10% of the landmass. One of the most famous of the waterfalls is Gullfoss, which was references as the Golden Falls as part of the Golden Circle. The waterfall can easily taken you about 45 minutes to an hour to explore as you can see it from every angle and walk almost to water's edge. Of course, you don't want to get to close and especially when icy, crampons would be a good idea as you will not survive if swept up in this waters. Skogafoss is a waterfall you'll definitely be seeing if taking a tour of the south coast of Icleand. You can literally walk up to the base of the waterfall or take a trek up the hillside to see the waterfall from above. Beware that in bad weather, the stairs might be closed and the closer you get, the more wet you'll leave. Of course my favorite was Seljalandsfoss, which can be seen from the road as you drive in south Iceland. One of the coolest things about this waterfall is your ability to hike behind the waterfall and take some awesome pictures. The trail on the right is much easier, but expect to get wet if you are walking close to or behind the waterfall. The left trail provides a higher view of the falls. When seen at night. the falls can provide a spectacular photo op. The spring also provides some beautiful greenery and flowers to add to the spectacular view. If you want to head a bit off the touristy trek, you should venture to Glymur, one of the most spectacular and the former tallest waterfall in Iceland. You can also visit Dynjandi and Haifoss, but you definitely need to read into the trek to these before venture on your way to these beauties.

If you continue on your trek in the south, you're sure to stop by Vik and its beautiful black sand beach Reynisfjara. As a warning, it would be wise to stay away from the shoreline as the waves crash at different levels and once you get swept in, there is little chance you'll be returning to land alive. The waves pound the shoreline and being there with nearly 50mph winds, I was pushed towards the water and pelted with the black sand. However, braving the weather, I got to see the waves go backwards because of the wind and mix in with the black sand that swept along the shoreline; something visually stunning and worth every struggle to experience in. However, if you plan accordingly,  you can probably enjoy the spectacular sight of this beach. There are also two main caves where you can see the beautiful post piles that formed in this mountain side that make for a beautiful spectacle of nature. While it is know as one of the most beautiful beaches in Iceland, I would beg to differ, as Diamond Beach was probably my favorite beach despite the weather conditions. Just on the other side of the bridge from Jokulsarlon (Glacier Lagoon) in Vatnajokull National Park, there is a beach that collects much of the glacier runoff. The result? A beach full of diamonds. Sure, these diamonds won't make you rich, but will leave you with lasting memories of something so incredible as the contrast of the black sand beach to the diamonds that lay all around is stunning. Plus, you even get close to chunks of the glacier Breidamerkurjokull that you cannot access at Jokulsarlon. 

Just up the way at Jokulsarlon, you can see the beautiful glaciers in the lagoon. Despite seeing the lagoon in darkness and rain on both visits, it still is visually stunning and a great walk. I definitely encourage you to dress warmer here as the weather changes, hence the glaciers. From day to day, the views change as the ice breaks off and flows down towards Diamond Beach and beyond. The ever-changing environment makes it a place you can visit over and over. While some wildlife floated around with the ice, the spring would provide a more eventful journey for those looking for wildlife. 

The glaciers of Iceland are also some of the most spectacular sights on the island. Many of these glaciers can be seen while driving from place to place, one of which is the spectacular Eyjafjallajokull which erupted in 2010, causing significant affects to Europe travel. A little farm that sits just below the glacier sits in a picturesque background, but also in a place of extreme danger during the latest volcanic eruption.

At Vatnajokull glacier, you can find the home of the movie Interstellar and show Game of Thrones as you find a landscape that is spectacular and also famous. It also has some of the most spectacular ice caves that are created and can be seen with the right temperatures in the winter months. Some of the most spectacular formations, but also forming some dangerous crevasse as you must walk with caution closely behind your guide, not to forget your crampons and picks. 

Thingvellier National Park and Geysir geothermal area are great stops that are sure to be apart of any Golden Circle tour. At Thingvellir, you'll stop at a UNESCO heritage sight where you get to walk between the Euroasian and American plates, essentially walking between two continents and if you keep walking, you can find Oxararfoss, a waterfall tucked back at the end of a short hike along a wooden trail. Then you can see the spectacular Geysir geothermal area where geysers shoot into the air as you can enjoy the thrill of the unpredictable blast. If that wasn't enough sulfur for you, you can also dip into the Blue Lagoon, one of the most famous spots for tourist, however, making a reservation in advance is wise. Also, don't forget to see the Icelandic horses, which are so stunningly beautiful that you'll definitely want to take one home. 

Of course, many venture to Iceland to see the Northern Lights (aurora borealis), which can be seen from September to April. However, understand that seeing the aurora is not a given and predicting them is even harder. A combination of factors will come into play and should be considered when sitting out for a night to try to catch them. In Iceland, the aurora can be seen in the north at about 2 or 2.5 and in the south at about a 3, however, another factor few consider is that it must be clear! You also have to be in a place with little light pollution as DARKNESS is key to seeing them, which is why the closer to December 21st you are, the greater your chance of seeing it (if the sky is clear), as there is more darkness. Of course if you want to see the spectacular aurora you often see in pictures, you'll want to hope for a 4 or greater. The rating of the aurora is on a scale of 0 to 9 and when it's higher, it has greater visibility. This rating is often projected based on solar activity. I am far from an expert, but when searching for the Northern Lights, I've avoided sitting out for hours by using technology and going out into the cold only when the activity is up. The Aurora Forecast (Europe) will give you VERY accurate predictions up to an hour in advance and I normally placed myself outside 15-20 minutes prior to these peak times. Of course, before you go out, check the cloud coverage too, as that plays a huge role, as the 5+ that I was hoping to see was not visible due to cloud coverage. Iceland (Cloud Coverage) Regardless, with luck on your side and a good DSLR, you'll be able to capture some great photographs. Even with a camera where I could not change my settings, I was able to capture some fairly spectacular views. For settings, you should consider using a wide-angle lens (I rented one online), a low f-stop, an ISO of about 800, and a shutter speed of about 15-30 seconds depending on the surrounding conditions. Don't forget your tripod (preferable able to handle the harsh cold climate) like I did, otherwise, you'll have to play MacGyver and create one out of the clothes and items you have. Also, keep your focus on infinity, as it will be a challenge to try to focus it on your own. The lights capture were between a 3 and 4 with a little bit of cloud coverage. 

The north would provide better viewing opportunities, but you also may be limited on places to stay and how to get there. I will be visiting the north more in a future trip. Other things to look into include bubble viewing (you sit inside a bubble with clear views of the sky) or floating viewing (view from a heated lagoon).

From my experience, I would consider using Guide to Iceland (Tours). I took the 3-day tour which included most of the above and covers what any other Golden Circle tour or South Coast tour would cover. It also allowed for more time and freedom at each location, which was nice for those looking to take photographs. It's a lot of time in the bus, so definitely bring something to do or edit photos while on the road, which is what I did. I also visited during the winter, but during the spring, there should be a bountiful of puffins to see, a bird they are well known for.

Oh yeah, the food. The food and other items are quite expensive. Most places I went had fish and lamb available. My lamb soup at various stops ranged from $10-15 USD per cup. There were some cheaper options such as burgers (regular and lamb) and of course the Icelandic hot dog (hot dog wrapped in bacon), but if you do want to eat more local, be prepared for lamb and fish, including dried fish sold at various stops along the way. It's not a foodie heaven, There are a few location such a Hofn, which are also well know for lobster, where I had delicious lobster tails, lobster spring roll and lobster bisque. Of course like any country, they have there interesting foods as well such as ram testicles, horse, whale, shark, puffin, blood pudding, and more. Many of these are detailed at Guide to Iceland, but not everything on this list is terrible. 

Regardless, Iceland is a beautiful country and worth the visit. It's easy to get around with most speaking both English and Icelandic and if you know the full name of the local person you meet, you already know the name of their mother or father. Icelandic Names It is a country built on tourism, so the people are friendly and nice and it is also considered one of the safest countries to travel to in the world! I would suggest staying near city center as there is a lot more going on, but if taking a tour, any hotel and some guest houses/hostels in the Reykjavik will be serviced. Like any place, there are places to avoid, so be sure to research! By trip's end, however, I am sure you'll be like me and wishing you could go back to explore some more, as it definitely was an exciting place to explore.  

Fairbanks (Winter) :|: Alaska

I'm not too sure that Alaska gets enough credit for the amazingness that lies within its borders. While I am sure that a cruise to Alaska may provide you with a taste of what Alaska has to offer, it is when you go deeper into Alaska that you'll find more of the hidden treasures that you may never see from the cruise ship. While I am far from an expert, the days I spent in Alaska were amazing and I thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

First off, if you decide to go Fairbanks in the winter time, you must be prepared to handle to cold temperatures. You will be quite miserable if you do not have the proper equipment, so it's a must to go over the list of things you may need. I was told it was a mild winter and on our first night, we got some pretty frigid temperatures.

1. FOOTWEAR - You have no idea how important it is to have the proper footwear when the temperature is as cold as it is and you want to go treking around the area. I ended up with DC snow boots and they were spectacular! While "boots" are great to have, if they're not snow boots, they may not cut it and may leave you with some frigid toes or even worse, possibly frostbite.

Waterproof Snow Boot

2. THE IMPORTANT PARTS - Where are the most important areas? Your feet (wool socks), your hands (proper snow gloves), and your head (head gear/face mask). I was able to secure some pricey socks that were the best investment ever. I had a few pairs in case I needed to double them up, but one pair ended up being great even in the coldest of temperatures. The face mask was only necessary when the conditions were windy and when I went sledding, but being able to flip up the bottom of my face mask to only leave my eyes exposed was great!

Micro Fleece Balaclava with Windproof Face Mask
Winter Ear Flap Hat

3. LAYERS - Think about how you can properly layer to stay warm and adapt to the changing temperatures. I ended up with my normal undershirt, layers with Under Amour cold gear, with a Nike wool long sleeve, an zip up layer from REI, topped off with an Asics windproof jacket which sufficed for most of the trip. I ended up using a Ninja hoodie (while part cotton, I used it as an under layer to protect my neck from the wind) as an under layer and also used a snow jacket when I went sledding. For the bottom, I had REI underwear, shorts, Under Amour cold gear, an under layer from REI, and then my jeans. I used a snow pant on the day I went sledding.

4. WARMERS - For those not use to the cold weather, warming packets (toes and hands) are a good accessory to carry around with you to keep you warm despite the cold temperatures.

Obviously, if you plan on camping, then you'll need a lot more than what I mentioned above, but if you're not roughing it, the above should be perfect fine. Just don't be the uninformed tourist who shows up in shorts and a t-shirt that says, I <3 LA.

Also when planning your vacation, you have to consider where you are staying in order to determine whether or not you need a car. The road conditions can be very dangerous and many of the rental cars are not equipped with the tires that you need in order to drive safely in the conditions. If you do drive, proceed with extreme caution when on the roads, especially if you've never driven in the snow or even worse, the ice. Let's just say, if it's sunny outside and the road is clear, it does not mean it's safe; quite the opposite. Sometimes, those can be the worst conditions to drive in. Regardless, being a native-Angelino, I was able to navigate the roads, but I did so with a little bit of caution.

Lodging can be an important choice depending on what you are planning to do. If you're there to enjoy the various tourist attractions the city has to offer and have no vehicle, stay in town near a hotel with good food/shopping options nearby, as it can be tough to get around even if it's across the street. However, for many of the tours offered, there will be transportation that will pick you up from a designated location (or even your hotel) and drop you off. If you are there trying to catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights, you may want to consider something more remote. Since that was my goal, I browsed around on AirBnB and found a beautiful and cozy Alaskan cabin that while a few miles from town, was a perfect place isolated from the light pollution of Fairbanks. Be mindful that in the winter, there will be no running water (we used Wet Wipes to keep us clean) so you have to plan accordingly. However, at the cabin we stayed at, they provided us with a tank of water and we had an outhouse to use for our other duties.

One of the things I loved most about Fairbanks were the people and it began with two of the best hosts, Charlie and Trina. They were so kind and welcoming and did their best to answer any questions that we had. It was a great start to our wonderful journey. We began our first day exploring the beautiful field that was before us right outside the cabin. The sun rose at about 10am and set just around 4pm, so we didn't have the most sunlight, however, it was definitely enough to explore. We ventured out and despite the cold temperatures, enjoyed the surrounding areas around our beautiful cabin.

Of course, we were there for much more. We began by stopping at North Pole, Alaska (how could we not) and explored. While the area is not as spectacular as it sounds, just the mere fact that you've been to Santa Claus' House at North Pole is extraordinary. (Notice I didn't put "the" North Pole.) We ventured around the gift shop and then also saw the beautiful ice sculptures. Just be aware that because of the changing seasons, not everything is open year round so check the calendars before you go. Don't expect to send too much time here though. Of course, just down the street, we were able to get a taste of reindeer sausage.

We then ventured off for a trek to Chena Hot Springs and Ice Museum. Imagine the setting, the middle of a snow covered resort in negative temperatures and you're soaking in water outside. Yes, that's right, it's an outdoor hot spring in Alaska. The drive to Chena is quite a long one, but well worth it. As I mentioned before, drive carefully, but enjoy it as well, as you get a number of beautiful sites on the drive. You can actually stay at the resort and enjoy a number of activities including the hot springs, however, it's close enough to Fairbanks (60 miles) to make it a short trek. One of the best things at the site is the Ice Museum. While you have to take their guided tour, you can venture through a museum from one of the best ice carvers in the world, Steve Brice. The museum houses a small workshop and also many of the pieces they created including a full ice bar that serves Apple Martinis in an ice cup that you get to bring home since they won't reuse it. It's a bit pricey, but can definitely be worth the experience.

Dog sledding is also another amazing adventure that is often connected with Alaska. Every heard of an Alaskan husky? Many of these sled dogs were former race dogs. They are definitely beautiful creatures and you can definitely see the strength that they have in their legs. It's interesting to see the different characteristics of each of the dogs and ultimately who ends up being the lead dog. There are a number of options for sledding in the area and you search around online, you're bound to find the price and trip that is a perfect fit for you. Also, keep in mind that it gets much colder on the ride that when you are standing. Many places will provide you with an extra layer and while I thought I had enough, I am glad I took the extra layer.

Of course, what is a trip to Fairbanks in the winter without a peek to the sky to see the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights). The lights are actually solar flares coming from the sun that hit our magnetic field. Ultimately the collision causes what we see in the sky. With the cold temperatures, it often can be a challenge to capture the aurora, but if you are patient, you will be rewarded. Remember that in the colder temperatures, batteries tend to run out faster, so pack extra batteries and also bring a solid camera, tripod and a remote (not necessary but helpful). I ended up using a Canon 5D Mark II and used a Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 lens. In the end, even with a low rated aurora (1.33), we still were able to capture some decent images of the aurora.

The difficulty in capturing the aurora, especially when it is weak is, you have to choose what you want in the image. Ultimately, the beauty lies in what you create and while you may want to capture the best image possible, remember to enjoy the experience as sometimes it's best to sit and enjoy the experience rather than focus so much on the perfect shot, as it is more incredible to the eye than what you can capture on camera.

Also, sitting out in the cold is a challenge. Use technology to your advantage. While we had the advantage of shooting at a hostel near Two Rivers where there was no light pollution, the best part about being there, was we were able to relax inside the common area of the hostel while it was cold. In the end, I used two sites to determine how long and when we would be outside. One, I used to determine what the expectations for the day would be: University of Alaska Fairbanks Forecast. It did a pretty good job for the daily forecast, however, the hourly did not always update and was not as accurate. When shooting the aurora, I used another site that was able to get us prepared for almost the exact time the aurora began to grow. The Aurora Service was key in helping me stay warm, but also not missing a moment of the aurora. I still checked from time to time so I didn't miss anything, but I went out ten minutes before it was predicted to be at its brightest and the forecast was right.

The aurora is pretty difficult to predict, but it is said that if you are in Fairbanks for three nights, there is a pretty good chance that you will see the aurora. Just remember that it will show up at different times in the night, normally later in the evening.

Overall, while my trip to Fairbanks was short, it gave me a good idea of what I could do in the future. From ice fishing to longer sledding treks to snow machining (snow mobiles) and more, there are still a great number of things that you can do in this wonderful place of Fairbanks where some of the most amazing people around live. Now it's time to visit when the sun never sets.